Newsletter Autumn 2023 Issue 39

From the Chair

Sadly, this will be my last Chairman’s Report. Mobility issues and ill-health prevent me from continuing in the role I have enjoyed for the past few years and it is probably time for someone else to take over anyway.

   As Chairman, I attend, two or three times a year, meetings of the Stafford Heritage Group, an umbrella organisation for historical associations in the county. Reporting on our activities and listening to others reporting has made me realize just how well-attended and vibrant the Ridware Society is. We should be very proud of how successful we are. We have had another excellent series of talks and, I believe, some super Summer Visits. Credit to Helen Sharp, incidentally, for finding such varied and entertaining subjects.

  But, as Hamlet nearly said, here’s the rub: I am having to stand down, and at least two other Committee members are considering their position. If we do not get replacements, this very successful society is in danger of folding. There must be those among you capable of and willing to serve on the committee for a year or two! It is not too demanding and you get the odd glass of wine and nice biscuits. It would be such a shame if the society had to close.

  Let me close by hoping it doesn’t and to wish it and you all a bright future.

                                                               Phil White

From Coalface to Fireplace

The final meeting of the 2022/23 winter programme, which was well attended by members and visitors, was presented by Diane and Trish from the Museum of Mining at Hednesford.

Diane began by explaining that the conditions that would eventually create coal began to develop about 300 million years ago, during the Carboniferous period. During this time, Earth was covered in wide, shallow seas and dense forests. The seas occasionally flooded the forested areas, trapping plants and algae at the bottom of a swampy wetland. Over time, the plants (mostly mosses) and algae were buried and compressed under the weight of overlying mud and vegetation. Under the right conditions, peat transforms into coal through a process called carbonization. Staffordshire and Cannock Chase in particular, proved to be rich in this natural resource.

Evidence of Medieval coal mining on a significant scale has been found through the Chase Through Time project, dating from c.1298 when the Bishops of Lichfield and Coventry owned the Chase. Hidden by centuries of growth are hundreds of medieval mining ‘bell pits’ and the scale of them has only just been uncovered using state-of-the-art LIDAR technology.

For centuries the coal mining industry was held in private hands, passing from one wealthy family to another. In 1546 the Cannock Chase coalfields passed into the hands of the Paget family and then the Marquis of Anglesey.

In 1832 women, girls and boys under ten were no longer allowed to work underground at Cannock Chase pits.

The 1850s saw the beginning of the heyday of coal mining. Still privately owned, but by a newly formed Cannock Chase Colliery Company, rather than a wealthy landowning family. The success of this industry can be gauged by the rapid growth in the population of small towns like Hednesford. In 1851 there were 311 inhabitants but by 1881 census this had burgeoned to 6,000 plus.

There is no doubt that the life of miners was incredibly tough and yet there were many who would not have changed their job for anything. There was a strong sense of community both above and below ground.

Over time conditions for miners gradually improved. In the very early days men wore nothing in the way of protective clothing; a cloth cap and knee pads at best. They used crude hammers and hand chisels to mine the coal seams, navigating the tunnels by means of naked candlelight. These were replaced by the Davy safety lamp and in 1950s electricity was introduced for illumination underground and miners began to wear hard hats with battery-operated head-torches. Ear defenders were a later safety innovation. On Cannock Chase the Forestry Commission was established in 1919 thus ensuring a constant supply of wood for pit props, but these were eventually replaced by much stronger metal props.

At the start of the Second World War, miners, keen to be free of the pits, signed up, leaving the mining industry woefully short staffed. With coal vital to keep the wheels of industry turning, Ernest Bevin decreed that every tenth man called up should serve down the mines.

In 1947 the whole of the coal industry was nationalised. In the Cannock District there was a total of 22 pits and although they were productive, there were already signs that their viability was going to be limited. Costs were rising rapidly. Ensuring miners had a good wage obviously hugely increased the wage bill. Safer mining practices being introduced through ever more sophisticated hi-tech equipment, again increased operating costs. At the same time coal being imported from Russia or Poland was coming in at a much cheaper rate. Gradually pits that became uneconomical began to close. The miners, naturally, wanted to fight for their livelihood, but one can but wonder if their actions hastened the closures. Littleton pit was the last of the deep Chase pits to close in1993. Bleak House, an open cast mine closed in 2000. Anyone under 23 would never guess that this area had been such an important mining area.

Pit ponies had been used underground since the late 1700s and were stabled underground for 50 weeks of the year. They were used to transport materials in and coal out of the mine. With the advent of electricity in the 1950s they were able to be ‘pensioned off’, although some pits continued using them into the 1960s.

Last shift at Cannock no. 8 pit. One of the coal-hauling ponies, Boxer, with keeper in 1962.

The interjections by some of our members who had been pitmen at Lea Hall Colliery added to the overall enjoyment and entertainment of the evening.                     

                                                                                  Helen Sharp   

Staffordshire History Network Meeting

The aim of the Staffordshire History Network is to be a mutually supportive network of groups and local societies with an interest in the history of Staffordshire. It brings together museums, historical groups and societies, civic societies, research groups, Friends’ groups and heritage sites from across the county to share ideas, best practice, news, and training.

Somehow, I managed to find myself at this session in February. After a foggy start, the drive, which I am glad to say I didn’t have to do (thank you Sarah Elsom), took us up into the glorious countryside of the Staffordshire Moorlands and then into Leek town.  We entered a rather imposing old building with a large copper dome, the Nicholson Museum and Art Gallery. Once inside we had a welcome warming ‘cuppa’ and were introduced to the team for the winter networking meeting.

We were told the Nicholson was built in 1884 by Joshua Nicholson, a wealthy silk manufacturer in the town. It was designed to be a public library, art gallery, museum and art school and was also a venue for concerts, lectures and events. It is one of the few buildings of that era in the county that still fulfils its original remit. 

The main theme of the meeting was about planning and developing touring exhibitions. Chris Copp, Collections Manager (Staffordshire Archives and Heritage Service), gave an overview of the process of developing and delivering the touring exhibition, ‘A case for the ordinary: Staffordshire asylums and the patient experience’ which was on display here.

Chris informed the meeting that the next exhibition, ‘Keeping the Lights On: a history of Rugeley Power Station’, will be held at Rugeley’s Red Rose Theatre from 1st May – 12th June 2023. It will then ‘pop-up’ at other venues, when the dates have been confirmed.

Once the formal part of the session was over, we were able to view the excellent asylum exhibition, catch up with members from other societies and wander round the museum. The artefacts on display demonstrated the importance of the silk weaving industry in the area. There were also smaller displays: one of ‘Tortoiseshell’ pottery and one of early mechanical toys. The museum is well worth a visit.

Oh! I forgot, there was also a taxidermized wallaby. Its body was found in the 1990s on the wild moors north of Leek. His forebears had escaped in the 1930s from a private zoo on the nearby Swythamley estate and had formed a small wild colony – from which he is presumably descended. No other wallaby has been spotted since, so it must be assumed the colony has died out. Unless you know better!

                                                                                       Helen Sharp

Visit to Sandfield Pumping Station in Lichfield

On a sunny, showery morning in May a small group of us visited the almost forgotten pumping station on Chesterfield Road in Lichfield. We used to pass this Victorian edifice on our way to Walsall until Ste. Foy Avenue opened. Seven years ago, the building was under notice of demolition by a housing developer until the newly formed Lichfield Water Works Trust stepped in to save it.

We were greeted by our hosts for the morning, volunteers, Katy and Brian. Other volunteers were busily going about their duties. As we walked into the building the oily smell evoked memories of engine rooms of times past.

After refreshments, Katy explained how this pumping station came into being, surprisingly not for the benefit of Lichfieldians, but for the folk of Dudley, some twenty miles away as the proverbial crow flies!  In 1851 the average age of someone from the Black Country was 23. There were no major rivers in the area so the need for water was hotly contested between the rapidly increasing population and the demands of industrialists. The available water came from contaminated wells and canals and coal pits, which ironically, despite being black, was probably the safest! The Earl of Dudley, who owned many coal pits and continually lost members of his workforce through cholera, understood the need for clean, healthy water and became a prime mover in the quest.

So why Lichfield? Didn’t it need the water itself? In fact, Lichfield was in the enviable position of having a plentiful supply of fresh clean water from underground springs on the Conduit Trust lands, plus there was no heavy industry demanding a copious supply of water. Civil Engineer, John Robinson McClean was in an ideal position to further the scheme as he had connections with people in rail, mining and canals who could help him ‘get things done’. In 1853 with the support of the Earl of Dudley the South Staffordshire Water Company was set up to provide “a more than ample supply of pure and wholesome water”.  

For its supply, the Company was authorised to take the water of certain streams west of Lichfield where it was impounded in reservoirs, Stowe Pool and Minster Pools, with a capacity of 56 million gallons. Cannon balls and mortar shells were amongst the relics uncovered during the cleaning out and enlarging operation.

From here, the water went in a half mile tunnel to Sandfield from where supplies were pumped along a 22 inch cast iron pipe lain alongside the South Staffs. railway line to a reservoir near the Manor Hospital at Walsall from where it would flow by gravitation to subsidiary reservoirs near Wednesbury and Dudley.

Now Brian took over the narrative, by taking us to see the Cornish Beam Engine which had been cosmetically restored, but which he thought may never get moving again owing to rust built up since it ceased being used in 1924.

He explained that before this beast of a machine, the station was equipped with two single condensing, rotative beam engines supplied by James Watt & Company of the Soho Foundry, Smethwick, in 1858. Four Lancashire boilers were installed in a separate boiler house, to provide steam for the original two engines. The no.3 Watt beam engine and two additional Lancashire boilers were installed in 1866. There were then six Lancashire boilers supplying steam to the three Watt engines, each of which was capable of pumping 1¼ million gallons of water per day to the Black Country.

In July 1871, William Vawdry, the South Staffordshire Company Engineer, recommended that the existing three engines were supplemented by the installation of a fourth engine, due to the inadequacy of the existing pumping capacity.  In 1873 the Cornish engine was eventually completed and installed. The cost of the engine, pumping plant and the three additional boilers came to £6,690. We were left pondering the logistics of transporting this 20 ton, 36 foot monster from the manufacturer in Tipton to Lichfield by rail or canal and then manoeuvring it to the second floor, its final position in the station, which in typical Victorian fashion, is itself a building of both beauty and strength. In fact, it is believed that one wall must have been completed after installation.

In 1966 the pumping plant was fully modernised with the construction of a new pump house building and the installation of new electrically powered pumping plant.

In1997 the South Staffordshire Water Company entered into a voluntary agreement with the Environment Agency to cease abstraction at Lichfield, resulting in the closure of the pumping station. The filtration plant was demolished in 1998, leaving the Cornish beam engine house and the late-C20 pumphouse as the only major structures still standing.

                                                                                      Helen Sharp

Visit to ‘Swad’: 17 June 2023

Our first visit to Swadlincote was a two-parter: we spent the morning in The Magic Attic and the afternoon in Sharpe’s Pottery Museum. The first thing we learned at the Magic Attic is that Swadlincote is fondly called Swad by its residents. We also learned that it grew from its small agricultural origins to a sort of mini Black Country with the explosive growth of mainly small potteries, making plain earthenware for domestic use, sanitary ware and also salt-glazed septic pipes. Apparently, 80% of all UK sewage pipes were at one time made in Swad. There were huge clay pits scarring the landscape, pipe works and the potbanks, coal mines and a dedicated railway called the Swadlincote Loop. The whole place was perpetually covered in smoke. Now the landscape is healing and it is at the centre of the National Forest. What an amazing transformation.

The Magic Attic began life in 1987 as a newspaper archive, when the Burton Mail intended to burn all its paper copies, and some foresighted person found space in Burton to store them. They have since been joined by other Burton and east Staffordshire/south Derbyshire newspapers, maps and other archives. It moved to its current site in 2003 when the council developed the former Sharpe’s Pottery site as a cultural hub.

Richard Ewing modelling a First World War helmet in the Magic Attic

People can’t seem to resist giving them things. Among other oddities, we saw a chandelier from Westminster Abbey, a newsletter from the Falkland Islands, magic lantern slides, a First World War helmet and gas mask and a door from the Bretby Pottery. Among other resources they have a database containing about 37,000 photos. This is an important local history resource. We were so impressed by the friendliness and helpfulness of everyone there.

After a sociable lunch we met our guide to Sharpe’s Pottery Museum. His excellent tour took in many other pottery manufacturers in addition to Sharpe’s, who mainly produced earthen and sanitary ware (i.e. toilets). Probably the most famous is T. G. Green, who manufactured the blue-and-white Cornish ware in nearby Church Gresley. Also in Church Gresley was Mason Cash, whose earthenware mixing bowls, baking dishes and pet bowls will be known to all (we have their specialist spaniel water bowls, shaped so that the dogs’ ears fall outside). Bretby produced fine art pottery which is very collectible today.

Inside the bottle kiln at Sharpe’s Pottery Museum

Sharpe’s Pottery Museum has retained one of its bottle kilns and the buildings have not changed substantially for 200 years. Originally, there were three bottle kilns and three glost kilns. The founder, Edmund Sharpe, invented the flushing rim toilet just at the point when, because of the prevalence of typhoid and cholera in the emerging industrial cities, the demand for sanitary ware blossomed. This makes Sharpe’s more or less contemporary with the founding of Edward Johns (later Armitage Shanks) and there are many parallels.

So, we learned a lot in Swad! One of its landmarks, now sadly gone, was The Rink, where generations of youngsters danced, listened to music and courted. Many famous names played there, including The Hollies and Jerry Lee Lewis, but they could not afford The Beatles, who wanted £300 for their gig.

                                                                                      Marty Ross

Visit to Beacon Park, Lichfield

Wednesday evening, 19th July, saw a group of 12 of us being shown the attractive Beacon Park in Lichfield by Jono Oates who had given our society one of his interesting talks during the previous winter season.

We met near the modern statue of Dr Erasmus Darwin close to what is now the local Registrar’s Office.  The building was originally erected in 1886 at the behest of Rev. James Thomas Law, a wealthy cleric from the cathedral.  At the time, it was the second free library in the country (the first being in Manchester) and the books were donated by local wealthy citizens. It’s understood that the poorer people of the district weren’t that keen, especially as the rates went up by a penny to pay for it.  We were told that, at one time where we were standing would have been under water.  It was called Bishop’s Pool and formed part of Minster pool. Under the nearby road bridge there are the foundations of the original medieval bridge.  Nearby was the statue of Capt. Edward Smith, commander of RMS Titanic which sank on its maiden voyage with great loss of life.  Contrary to popular belief the statue was not in Lichfield instead of Capt. Smith’s birthplace of Hanley due to Hanley’s shame after the sinking.  It was always intended to be in Lichfield due to its location midway between the capital and Liverpool, the HQ of the White Star Line who owned the Titanic.

We then took a gentle stroll through the pleasant gardens of the park to view the Martyr Plaque.  This is a collection of worn stone carvings showing the city’s great seal which were originally on the Guildhall and then displayed in the Museum Gardens.  It is a depiction of the legendary battle between Romans and Christians.  The Christians were defeated and the bodies left scattered where they fell. When the carvings became overgrown, they were dug up and installed on a purpose built wall with the spires of the cathedral in the background.

We then walked further across the park to find a monument to Lt. Col. M.A.W. Swinfen-Broun JP, Freeman of the City and public benefactor.  He became one of the main promoters for the public Beacon Park, although there is no evidence that he handed over any of the Swinfen lands for the purpose.  Born in Scotland, he moved to the vast Swinfen estate when his widowed father remarried.  Jono, however, told us a tale of family scandal and general discord.  The house and estate had become very run down until Samuel Swinfen took over.  He promoted a very frugal regime which eventually brought finances and the estate back to a more profitable existence.  Some turmoil hit the family when his son, Henry, ran off and married a parlour maid called Patience.  Patience had left her home in Llanfair to seek her fortune in London.  She met Henry while the family were on their regular visit to the accountant in the capital.   The family were not best pleased that Henry had married someone who was certainly not of their class.  Eventually, after an extended honeymoon they returned to Swinfen.  Samuel eventually saw that Patience was no shrinking violet and she ran the big house like a well-oiled machine.  When Samuel, and then Henry both died, Patience was left the whole of the Swinfen estates and its great wealth.  She succeeded in fighting off claims in the courts by other family members who wanted the fortune.  She also did battle with lawyers who tried to stitch her up with a dodgy settlement and over 10 years her legal battles became a national talking point.  If you wish to learn more, there is a lot of information on the internet.

We then moved on to the north east part of the park where once stood Beacon House, one time home of George Hand.  This was another large house in its own grounds which was known as the Beacon Estate, and had four lodges at one time but all are now gone.  We learned a lot about the family which was marred by tragedy, including the death of two daughters.  This inspired them to engage the famous sculptor, Sir Francis Chantry, to create the famous Sleeping Children sculpture in the cathedral.  The house changed hands several times over the years and became offices during the First World War.  The War Department eventually bought the house between the wars and during the Second World War it was occupied by the Royal Army Service Corps.  For a while the house was used to train secret agents and saboteurs.  The house was eventually bought by the city council and was demolished in 1964.

Jono then led us along an old pilgrims’ walk to the gardens at the rear of Darwin House.  This was the home of Erasmus Darwin, now known mainly as the grandfather of Charles Darwin.  He had been a doctor in Nottingham but failed to be a success.  He decided to try his luck in Lichfield where he became very successful. Unlike most doctors of the day, he didn’t hold with bleeding his patients to cure illnesses.  Instead, he prescribed a healthy diet of less red meat and plenty of fruit and vegetables, and the use of natural herbal remedies.  A man way ahead of his time, he became wealthy enough to build the house which now bears his name.  He was even offered the job of surgeon to King George III.  As a republican, he thought it might not be appropriate to accept.  A good decision as it turned out.

Our little group had an enjoyable hour and a half and Jono managed to pass on some of his encyclopaedic knowledge of the city to us in an entertaining fashion which we all appreciated.  Even the weather was kind to us which showed everything off to its best.

                                                                                           Roy Fallows

Special Event

On the eve of the Harvest Festival, you are invited by the Friends of Mavesyn Ridware Church to an Open Afternoon at St Nicholas’ Church, Mavesyn Ridware on Saturday 30 September between 2pm and 5pm. Come and find out about the church’s fascinating history and learn the link with the House of Commons. You will also be able to see inside the rarely open belfry tower and learn about the intricacies of bell-ringing. Members of the church and Ridware History Society will be on hand to show you around and (hopefully!) answer questions about the church’s over 800-year lifespan.

Refreshments will be available. Adults £5. Children 10 and over £2.50.

You will be helping the fundraising effort to preserve this historic building.